Both durable and adaptable, London Cobble offers a more tailored, architectural look with its gently rounded corners and domed “pillow top” surface. The subtle color combinations and versatile pattern make it ideal for captivating walkways.
Available in 7 colors:
Amaretto, Bella, Charcoal, Flash Brown Blend, Liberty Blend, Sable Blend, and Silex Blend
London Cobble Installation Instructions
|● Base: 3/4" 2A modified stone - 3" depth or more |
● Setting Bed: Gray Screenings - 1" depth.
● Finishing Sand: Mason's Sand - Dusting for Cracks
● Paver Edging: Either Edge restraint or plastic edging.
|● Wooden Stakes |
● Masons String
● 3-5 pound hammer
● Chalk line
● Stiff bristle broom
● Hard tooth garden rake
● 25 ft. measure tape
|● 6-8 ft. 2x4, or 2x6 board |
● Small pry bar
● Flat Shovel
● 3-5 hp plate compactor
● Mason Diamond Saw
● Wide Blade Masons Chisel
● Block/Paver Splitter
● 4 ft. level
(For exact material amounts and yield calculations please call one of our sales people at Landscape Products)
1) LAYOUT & PREPARATION:
First measure area you intend to pave. Determine square footage by multiplying (length x width = square footage), add 5% for breakage and cutting. Measure lineal feet of open edges, those not up against a permanent structure such as a house, etc. This will indicate lineal footage of edging required. Draw a plan on a piece of paper showing all important dimensions. Take this plan to your supplier so that he can help you determine the proper amount of materials needed to complete your project.
Using the 3-4-5 triangle method to determine a perpendicular line, measure parallel lines from the perpendicular line to establish a boundary. Place stakes every 4 feet to 6 feet and at corners. These stakes should be 8" outside of the planned edge of the pavers.
NOTE: You can check to make sure an area is square by making sure both sets of cross corners measure the exact same distance.
Using a flat shovel cut evenly to remove sod/dirt to a depth of at least 5-1/8" (13cm) to allow room for 2-3/8 (6cm) paver, 3/4" (19mm) compacted sand, minimum of 2" (5cm) compacted crushed stone base (more if soil is very soft). If the house is of new construction there might be potential for settling next to the foundation, We suggest you increase base thickness to 6" (15cm) or a total excavation of 9" (23cm) within 2 feet (1 meter) of new foundation. Excavation should be 6" (15cm) wider on sides where edge restraint is to be used. - NOTE: You cannot build your pavers on loose topsoil. Excavate to a depth beyond any topsoil and build on a clay base.
3) BASE PREPARATION:
This is very important. The more time and effort you put into the preparation of the base, the better the project and the longer it will last, Use either 3/4" (19mm) or 1/2" (13mm) graded base material that includes sizes down to fine dust. This material is easier to compact and will give a tight close knit surface of compaction.
Method of Compaction:
First, run your plate actor over the excavated soil. (Make sure no soil gets stuck to the bottom of the plate tamper). Each pass should overlap the previous one by about 4". Now spread your gravel base material out evenly in about 2" layers. If material is dry and dusty us a garden hose to thoroughly wet it down, this helps make the gravel faster to compact and easier to rake. Starting around the outer perimeter start with the plate compactor and again overlap each pass about 4" working towards the center. You should make at least two complete passes for each layer. Use your hard tooth garden rake to rake out any unevenness.
When finished with the base it should be very smooth and flat. If you were to put a straight edge flat on the surface there should be no more 1/4" (6mm) (maximum) gap anywhere along the straight edge and the base.
Slope and Grade:
Slope and Grade are important to ensure proper run-off. It is best to plan a 1/4" (6mm) per foot drop, but try not to exceed 1/2" (12mm) per foot.
4) SAND SETTING BED:
NOTE: It is important to keep your sand dry. Always your sand covered in case of rain.
Do not attempt to level any area or surface irregularities with the sand. This will result in an uneven surface and unwanted settling.
Lay your screed guides (l" (25mm) electrical conduit,1" strips of wood or other suitable rigid 1" guide) 4' to 6' apart and parallel. Work from side to side with your screed guides, screed a 10' section of sand. You will use your 6 ft. to 8 ft. 2" x 6" to loosely spread the sand and to strike off any excess. DO NOT walk on or work from your screened sand. Do not worry about voids that screed guides have left after you have removed them. You will lightly fill them with sand and trowel them smooth as you are laying the pavers.
5) LAYING THE PAVERS:
Starting from a permanent edge such as a house or driveway, lay your first paver starting from either side. (As you start laying pavers, work from right to left, then left to right and so on, one row of pavers at a time.) Set the pavers lightly onto the sand, never press them or hammer them in. Be sure to allow 6" (15cm) to edge on the open sides later. If there are some Pavers lagging behind go about three rows of pavers and using a small pry bar, wedge between the Pavers and pry the Pavers forward until they are in line again. Do not worry too much about gaps at this point, they will even out during tamping later. Many different laying patterns are possible, but herringbone provides the best surface interlock.
Set the pavers hand tight, but DO NOT use a hammer to adjust the pavers or set them. If you are doing the project over a couple of days, cover the entire area with plastic overnight if rain is expected. Do not lay pavers over the 6" (15cm) extended base area where edging is to be set later.
6) CUTTING THE PAVERS:
You will need to cut pavers if you have to go around a post or come up against an existing structure or where a radius is desired.
You do not need to cut (except maybe 1/2" stones) on sides where edging is installed. Mark any stones to be cut with a crayon or chalk and allow for up to 1/4" (6mm) gap between the stone and the edge. This will be filled with sand later. You should use either a diamond blade meson sew, a paver splitter or a hammer and chisel.
7) FINAL STEPS:
Using a vibratory plate compactor, 3 HP to 5 HP, you should make at least two passes over the pavers. Starting around the perimeter and working inward, overlap each pass 2 to 4 inches. Make the 2nd pass at a 45 degree angle to your first. The first pass of the compactor will accomplish the following:
will level all the pavers
compact the sand bedding course
force sand up into the joint
Using a DRY medium or coarse washed sand for the joints, spread a thin layer of the jointing sand over the surface. Use a stiff bristle street broom and sweep back and forth over the entire pavement until sand has stopped felling into joints.
Now, alternating between tamping and sweeping, continue to work the material into the joint If when you make a pass with the plate compactor and no more joints open up, you are then finished.